I’ve lived in New York and Chicago.  I also lived in São Paulo for 10 years and think it’s time to add a new subject into this ongoing, eternal discussion.

São Paulo was colonized partially by Italians and has a large Italian community. With that came the tradition of making a good pizza. Pizza might be the most popular dish among “paulistanos” and they demand nothing but the best in the art of making it. It’s so beloved among them that they even have the “Pizza Day” celebrated on July 10^th! Years have passed and today we find all kinds of pizza, from the traditional margherita to gourmet combinations such as truffles and champagne. There are 3 things that I consider most important to make the best pizza:

Antipasti: the dough. To me, it’s the most important part of the pizza. The precise combination of high quality ingredients, right temperature, and time in the oven is crucial to make you eat the crust by itself. Golden crisp borders outside and soft airy inside, gradually flattens toward the center. I know a lot of people that don’t eat the crust, and that is because they haven’t tried a perfect one. I even dip mine in olive oil.

Primi: the high quality and freshness of the ingredients. Pizza is a simple dish but it doesn’t mean that whatever goes on top makes a good one. High quality of cheese, for instance, it’s essential so you don’t have gooey rubber band like effect when you take a bite. Greens on top like the infamous arugula with sundried tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella should look green as if you just took it from the garden. Ah, with or without tomato sauce? It’s all a matter of taste, but if that’s your choice, it better be light and fresh.

Secondi: the creativity. I’m not a purist so I appreciate creativity when inventing new flavors. Pizza toppings open up a whole lot of possibilities for infinite creations. Nothing against traditional flavors, as a matter of fact, the old school margherita is still one of my favorites. But please just balance the ingredients so one doesn’t overpower the other. Seriously, can you taste anything else with a spicy pepperoni sausage?

Finally, I dare to say that you can find all together much more in São Paulo than in New York. That raises a lot of eyebrows indeed. I’m not saying they make the best pizza in the world but certainly…it’s pretty close to “whoever” makes the best pizza in the world.

With 395 miles of stunning coastline, the state of Rio de Janeiro is a top destination for those looking for a vacation that’s anything but ordinary.  Secluded beaches, eco-diversity, and luxury hotels decorate the landscape, but it’s still considered a well-kept secret.  The definition of luxury travel is evolving.  Today’s traveler is seeking solitude, escape, and something that feels authentic. They want to connect with locals, sample the native cuisine, and interact with nature. Areas outside the city of Rio de Janeiro combine all of that. 

The following top destinations are conveniently located from Rio de Janeiro, and each offer something special.  These relaxing settings were chosen based on their luxury accommodations, natural beauty, and authenticity.

Búzios

Búzios – Just a 2 hour drive from Rio, or 30 min by helicopter, this peninsula has over twenty beaches waiting to be explored and offers historical, cultural and ecotourism tours that will enlighten even the savviest traveler.  The town of Búzios has become increasingly trendy over the years and caters to the most demanding guests with its luxury options.  It has high-end shopping, restaurants and boutiques along its cobblestone streets.  Búzios also has a reputation as a party town, with many nightlife options

Angra dos Reis – This archipelago, part of the famous “Green Coast” of Brazil, is 3 hours by car or 40 min by helicopter from Rio.  It has 2000+ beaches, and 365 islands to choose from and Brazilians say it has an island for each day of the year.  Angra dos Reis offers plenty of upscale accommodations and luxury vacation homes, making it popular among wealthier Brazilians and international visitors alike.  The largest island in the area is Ilha Grande.  Focused on conservation and eco-diversity, this is a common stop where one can see numerous endangered species in a stunning preserved setting.   

Paraty

Paraty – Located 4 hours by car from Rio, the town is also part of the “Green Coast” of Brazil.  Its colonial architecture, cobblestone streets, and cultural traditions are remnants of the past.    This small town, formerly a fishing village, is an example of the new luxury – a place which provides authentic experiences, charm and style. Accommodations are rustic-chic, designed to coexist with the surroundings and capture Paraty’s essence.  It’s also surrounded by miles of beaches and the Atlantic Rainforest, offering a unique blend of natural and historical sites.    

Why? It’s simple. Famous people can find the privacy and anonymity they seek while vacationing in some great beach destinations in Brazil. They can come and go without being noticed by the press or their nightmare, the paparazzi. Add to the relaxed environment, luxury accommodations and local experiences and voila, they return wanting more… Maybe they got tired of going to luxury hotels on private islands in the Caribbean?

They are people like us, yes! The only difference is that sometimes they need a peaceful place out of the spotlight, where they won’t be bothered (but wait, don’t we all need that?) For example, someone well known in the States (not revealing any identities or my business is ruined) went to a great beach in southern Bahia and was shocked nobody recognized them. They also had the opportunity to interact with the local community, making the overall experience that much more rewarding.

Well, Brazil has a lot of surprises yet to be discovered by all kinds of people, including celebrities.

See you next time!

Daniela Schuch

What is being overlooked is the rapid development which can be expected in the city. Rio could offer a larger concentration of high end hotels and accommodations, and foreign investment by larger hotel chains in the area will provide more choices, making Rio more accessible and attractive for visitors than ever before.

Development and modernization can have amazing impacts on cities with crime issues. Anyone who lived in New York over the past 20 years can attest to the fact that the cleanup of its streets began with the fixing up of its buildings and renewed commitment by its citizens on cleaning up their neighborhoods. It’s now one of the safest big cities in the world. I’m not saying that Rio will succeed in the same manner, but the “broken window theory” is something which has helped turn around a megalopolis like New York, and I sincerely hope this approach will be used in Rio. There are plenty of differences – Rio has people living in abject poverty not seen en masse in the United States, so raising the quality of life in the slums will take time, energy and resources but could have great payoffs.

For those visiting or planning to visit– do not be turned off by what you see in the media. What you’re seeing is isolated in areas of the city. In fact some of the slums which were once controlled by cartels have been cleaned up, so could be only a matter of time as the city continues to evolve. Rio has some amazing sights to see, and it’s only a few hours from the beaches of Buzios, Angra dos Reis, and Paraty which are all spectacular and full of things to do.

I’m noticing however that, the definition of luxury is changing and it doesn’t always mean chandeliers and crystal. People are used to traveling in style but are looking for more.

As people spend more hours at work, they want to pack their vacations with authentic experiences and memories that last long after they’ve returned to their jobs and lives. They seek authenticity, and connection. By that I mean, learning about the local culture, immersing themselves in it, and returning with a wider world view.

Additionally, very unique accommodations and destinations exist throughout Brazil, providing visitors the service and amenities they’ve grown to expect, surrounded by unspoiled natural beauty. These same properties practice sustainability –employing local staff, supporting the local economy, and focused on preserving the natural surroundings for future visitors.

When you saw some of the emotion and passion which came through from the Brazilian Olympic contingent headed by Brazil’s president, Luiz Inacio Lula da Silva (also known simply as Lula), and Pelé during the selection in Copenhagen, it gave some perspective on how important this is for the country. We’ve been known as a place to visit, and an emerging nation, full of natural resources, and possessing a rich cultural. Now the world will see what many have known for years that it’s truly a special place.  Although I live in the U.S. now, it will always be my home and I could not hide how proud I’m of my country.

I’m not going to sugarcoat everything. Brazil has its share of problems.  As a country in transition from its third world satus to an economic powerhouse, we are still going through some of the growing pains (as well as other nations) who rapidly are developing. We have a lot of work to do. As recently as 1985, the country was under military rule, and not an open nation.  The government was known as corrupt and didn’t offer the freedoms we enjoy in the U.S.  Brazil went through a period 1960 until 1989 where elections were banned.  Many of its residents lived through those times, and are determined to make its democracy work.  

Throughout its history, the one constant has been the warmth of its people, its natural beauty, and the desire of its residents to continue to make it a great nation. You see in their faces, in its architecture, music, food, and culture.   I truly hope that this will be a showcase to the world that Brazil is no longer looked at as an “emerging market” only but a prime example of how far the country has come in the past 25 years. 

I’ve said it before; Brazil is much more than caipirinhas, samba, and Carnaval.  It’s a diverse, beautiful, and relatively undiscovered place to many.   Now is a great time to visit and see why it’s been chosen to host two of the most important sporting events in the world: World Cup 2014 and Olympic Games 2016.

Congratulations Rio de Janeiro and Brazil, you deserve it!

Tchau, Daniela

Moqueca Baiana

Moqueca is a made with fish, coconut milk and vegetables, along with palm oil (called Dendê) which is used extensively in cooking. You will need to put that diet on hold, but it you’ll thank us later.  Brazilians are also very proud of the “chopp” (ice cold draft beer) which can be found at most bars throughout the city and the country itself.

Salvador has many street vendors selling foods including “acarajé”, which are black eyed peas mashed and fried in Dendê served with shrimp (acarajé com camarão) and topped with spices.   Acarajé paired with a Guaraná soda (Antarctica is my preferred) is another excellent way to sample some of the local flavors. Guaraná is made from a berry and thought to have excellent powers for energy and antioxidants. Fresh coconuts are available all over the city (and throughout the country) which are cut with a machete and served very cold with a straw.  The coconut water (aguá de coco) is tasty and quenches your thirst.   

One of the greatest things about staying in Brazil (anywhere in Brazil it seems) is the breakfast, included with your

Acarajé

room rate at hotels and pousadas.  Each morning, you’ll be treated to a nice breakfast of fresh breads, local fruits and freshly squeezed juices.  The juices are typically way better than what you’ll find in the states, and unique flavors such as acerola & maracujá (passion fruit) are common –give them a try!   Most hotels also offer hot dishes the kitchen makes to order.   Coffee lovers are in luck — Brazilian coffee is strong, delicious and puts the weak American brews to shame.  Common brands available in grocery stores include Pilão and Café Do Ponto.   

The beach is a way of life and Brazilians know how to do it better than most.  When you visit most beaches across the country, you’ll see food, drink, and souvenir vendors lining the beaches. Foods such as “pastel”, which is basically a Brazilian version of an empanada, is available at most places and is a perfect snack while you’re lounging in the sun. Soft drinks, beer, and juice are all typical beverages you’ll find being sold on the beach.   Why this hasn’t ever caught on in the U.S. I’m not sure, but Brazilians have figured it out.    

A word of advice – skip any skewers being sold with shrimp on them.  Sun baked shrimp is a culinary risk not worth taking.  You might see it and you might not, but you’ve been warned.

Side Note: Trust me when I tell you that the Brazilians know pizza very well.  I’ve eaten it in the birthplace of pizza (Naples, Italy) and throughout the U.S.  (having lived in New York City for 2 years)  and feel qualified to tell you that you should at least give it a try, especially if you make it to Sao Paulo. Paulistas are very proud of their pizza and will tell you it’s among the best in the world.  I have to agree.    One of the lesser known facts about Brazil among Americans is the influx of European immigrants which have settled in Brazil (just like the U.S.) and they’ve brought many of their culinary traditions with them.    

Have any other tips or opinions on Brazilian cuisine?  Leave us a comment

Cairu town

The boat tour itself is a full day trip which picks you up at the beach in Morro, and takes you to one of the natural pools (the coral reef at low tide where you can see the sea life up close), and the neighboring islands of Boipeba (be sure to try the lobsters available when you disembark on the beach) and Cairu (a small, charming town).  You’ll also see the large numbers of waterways and mangroves which connect the islands of the archipelago.  Oh, I also have to mention this because it’s so fantastic and peculiar to Brazilians: at the natural pools besides snorkeling and appreciating the colorful tropical fish, guess what? You can also have a beer! Yes, no joke here, there is a floating bar in the middle of the sea with floating tables and everything (see the picture if you don’t believe me).

bar on the sea??

Another interesting sight on the island is in Gamboa, on the south side of the island and also less crowded.  This stretch of beach offers a very special clay bath, which runs from the cliff above.   You can climb part of the cliff easily and cover yourself in this pink clay and rinse off in the sea.  It’s very relaxing and good for the skin as we were told!

 Anima Hotel offers other excursions, including opportunities to connect with local people.  One popular option is to accompany the local fisherman on their daily route for the day’s catch.  The hotel’s chef is happy to prepare whatever fish you catch at the end of your day.

For nightlife, the main beach of the town (Second Beach) has a large number of restaurants, bars, and clubs, all set on the sand, and all overlooking the ocean.  Vendors are also out in the sand, offering everything from handmade art to cocktails made from some of the fruits found on the island. 

zipline

If you’re the adventurous type, you can see an enormous zip line which extends from a cliff on the top of the island and extends across the sea.  It’s the largest zip line I’ve ever seen, and judging by the screams we could hear from those “zipping” it looked like a thrilling thing to do.   I consider myself somewhat adventurous (I’ve gone hang gliding in Rio de Janeiro) but this was a little too much for me so you’ll have to take my word on it as a spectator.  

Now a secret will be revealed (well, it’s not that much of a secret for those who go to Morro). The best place to hang out is a fantastic outdoor bar/club which overlooks the sea from the high cliffs of the island called Toca do Morcego. Be sure to go at sunset and you will be treated to live music, DJ’s and unbeatable views (also people to watch and be watched). If you go around 5pm you can get yourself a prime spot facing the ocean and a gorgeous sunset while holding a caipirinha. 

Do you have some other activities you’ve done in Morro de São Paulo?  Leave your suggestions.

kombi from Hotel Anima

The Hotel’s VW MiniBus (Brazilians call it the Kombi) took us to the property (which is available free for trips between the hotel and the town throughout the day).  The hotel is a 15 minute drive from the town’s tourist information area, across a (bumpy) dirt road that passes the island’s airstrip and some small houses.   Just down the road, we arrived at the hotel, which appears to be in the middle of the jungle.

From the main check in you can see the beach in front of you. The beach itself is a study in contrasts.   The appearance of the beach varies according to the time of day. When we arrived, at low tide, the water line for the sea extended out approximately 1-2 miles from the hotel.  We

very low tide

could barely see the ocean on the horizon!  This was during a full moon which impacts the tides as well as the island’s proximity to the equator. During the high tide, the sea reappears comes much closer to land. Its pristine waters and seclusion (there are few properties on this end of the island) make it a very relaxing and private environment.

The walk to the guest bungalows guides you through some of the jungle, where you’ll see tropical flora and fauna, as well as some of the other inhabitants of the area (small, non aggressive crabs or little monkeys).   The bungalows are rustic in appearance from the outside, but have all the modern amenities you’d expect like A/C, TV, and DVD player.  Each has a porch with hammocks which are an excellent way to hang out during the day or to wind down after your busy day.  

bungalow Anima Hotel

Just off the main desk of the hotel is an area which features works of local artists.  Philippe, Anima’s owner, is very keen to connect visitors with the local population, and it’s a very nice way to become familiarized with the culture and the people.

There’s a number of excursions available, including guided tours of the surrounding islands, horseback riding, and even fishing trips with local fisherman as guides.  I highly recommend checking out some of the surrounding areas which provide opportunities to see some of the eco-diversity and enjoy some of the other towns.  Along the way you support locally owned businesses, and get a glimpse of how the natives live on Morro de São Paulo. We’ll cover some of the other options and things we did in our next blog post.  

Have you ever been to Morro de São Paulo? Have some experiences you’d like to share?  Leave a comment!

Learn more about Morro de São Paulo and the Hotel Anima here

A taxi whisked us to our hotel in the Rio Vermelho, a bohemian neighborhood with many hotels, bars, and restaurants (great nightlife and place to be).  The area itself is along the sea, which offers some nice views from some of the hilly areas overlooking the city. We stayed at the Zank Hotel, a small boutique hotel that we highly recommend (see reviews about Zank Hotel here).

One thing that you have to get used to in Salvador and Brazil’s northeast is the relatively high amounts of poverty.  Northeast Brazil like other parts of the country has significant gaps between rich and poor.  Tourism is a big industry there, and visiting helps support many of the local businesses.  That said, the people are very warm, welcoming and happy, making you feel relaxed.

Pelourinho streets

Our first stop in Salvador was its most famous landmark, the Pelourinho.  It’s an area of town with a large assortment of colonial architecture dating back to the 16th century.  The pedestrian-friendly cobblestone streets, colorful buildings, and colonial era churches make it a signature of Northeast Brazil.  Salvador has a real artistic spirit to it, one that’s evident in its architecture, design, art works and music.  While we were walking at the Pelourinho streets, we wandered into a small gallery of a painter whose works were original, bold, and colorful and could have easily sold for hundreds or thousands of dollars in the U.S.  Don’t be shy and walk into the houses to meet those wonderful artists.

From the Pelourinho, you can walk to Elevador Lacerda, a landmark which overlooks the port from a cliff, and has an elevator that takes you down to the main market of Salvador (A picture of this can be found on the Salvador destination page).   The main market is touristy for sure, but also a great place to pick up souvenirs, and unique works from local artists.  It also has some small eateries and bars.

Two other significant religious sites which are some of the most famous in Bahia are São Francisco, and Nosso Senhor do Bom Fim churches.   

São Francisco blue-white tiles

São Francisco church and convent is located within the Pelourinho and is an easily reached landmark to explore to get a sense of the religious history of the area. When you enter the church, the main entrance leads you into a courtyard where you’ll find the original walls covered by blue-white tiles brought from Portugal which contain writings and other proverbs by its founders.  I spent over a half hour just reading all the writings (they’re in Portuguese and English).  Many are very profound and are reminders that material wealth is only on the surface, and how true wealth comes in many forms.  Inside, the church represents the most important example of Portuguese-Brazilian Baroque fine art.   Due to its impressive sculptured gilt woodwork, paintings and decoration, São Francisco is also called “the golden church”.

my husband & Bom Fim ribbons

Nosso Senhor do Bom Fim is a church perched up on a hill overlooking the city. The role of religion in Brazil is a significant part of its culture, and Bom Fim is the center of it. All around the church and hung on the gates outside, you’ll find thousands of colorful Nosso Senhor do Bom Fim ribbons which have been placed there by worshippers.  The Nosso Senhor do Bom Fim ribbon is placed around the wrist and then you make your wish, and are supposed to leave it on until you receive the divine grace. You see people throughout Brazil wearing these ribbons.  Even if you don’t make wishes or are in Salvador when they come true, they make for great souvenirs.  The church is reached by taxi, and is approximately a 15 minute drive from the Pelourinho.

Salvador also has several beaches across the city. You can find several food vendors lining the beach with Acarajé, a local treat made with mashed black eyed peas and other regional specialties.  The beach is synonymous with food in Brazil as vendors sell all sorts of treats which make you wonder why it’s never caught on in the U.S. More to come regarding food in Brazil in our next blog post.  

We didn’t have enough time to visit the beaches of Salvador, partly because we were headed for the nearby beaches on the island of Morro de São Paulo. We’ll be sure to explore them on our next visit to the region.

These are just a few of the sights to see when you visit Salvador.   You can learn more about the city and some places to stay here.

Have any other tips or experiences you’d like to share?  Leave us a comment!